The Road Ends at Loop Head

Our travel route is down the west side of Co. Clare, and we are in search of all coastal access along the way. The main coastal highway N67 turns at Kilkee and loops back inland. There is smaller highway, the R487, that continues south from Kilkee down to the very southwest tip of Clare, to Loop Head. For travelers off the beaten path, this is the way to go - a perfect chance to explore and see what is out there.

The last village we get to is called Kilbaha. Fishing and farming are the order of the day here, given the expanse of open sea and land. This is where the mouth of the Shannon River meets the Atlantic Ocean.

The Kilballyowen Scroll attracts my attention. It is a community artist's exhibit on the side of the road. It is carved metal illustrations depicting the values of the local people. The work is new and part-funded by the Rural Resources Development Ltd. and the European Union. The metalwork is exquisite; it shows a sophisticated understanding of light and profile. I read through the text describing what each image celebrates: farming, music, religion, fishing, emigration, sport, and Irish language. Gleaning information and new understanding from these words, I imagine what life used to be like here, and how it has changed with modernity. I imagine how busy this village must have been before the West Clare Railroad came to nearby towns Kilkee and Kilrush and usurped the position of the Shannon River as the main entrance to these southwestern corners of Clare. Now it is so quiet. But these basic life values still endure. When commerce has died down, they sustain life in a local way. There is one pub, a social center that puts any Irish locale on the map, and a few fishing boats.

The village surrounds a gorgeous bay. My travel partner and I walk out along the shore. Huge rock plates tilted sideways rise up out of the sand. They make for fun exploring. Nature's entire color palette is on show here - pink snails, gold-infused rock layers, blue pools with green life inside. It is all very beautiful. My eyes are delighted.

We head out to the Loop Head and discover a huge lighthouse on the point. There is a path around the point through a green field dotted with purple march orchids. The waters are alive with all types of birds feeding after their long flights from all over the world. I spot fulmars, a seagull type bird that flies along the top of cliffs, tucking in the cliff crevices for a night's sleep. The walk is about 1 1/2 miles and lovely at sunset.

At this tip of Clare where the road ends, we've found our perfect spot to pitch a tent and rest up for the next day.